Skip to main content

Replacing the Pentax K-01 Grip

The only one available locally was a demo unit with a yellow grip. I personally don’t like that shade of yellow and wouldn’t feel right using it in professional situations, but the deal was good and I couldn’t pass it up. I was able to acquire one of those fake K-01 display models to use as parts. 

If you haven’t seen them before, they are empty shells that are used to give people an idea of each style of the camera. It’s an efficient way for Pentax to get something into local stores for people to handle. If you want to do something similar to what I did, you are on your own in finding one of those fake cameras. Sorry, I can’t help you find one. 

 When in doubt, contact Pentax and see if they sell the grip sections for the K-01. I tried that, but didn’t have much luck. CRIS support was a bit better and referred me to a parts department, but they didn’t even have the parts listing document or know what a K-01 was! (they did have a document for the K-7 they sent me after asking about a rear scroll wheel replacement)


You can see the real camera on the left and the fake on the right. The interesting thing is that they use many of the same components.

Let’s get started with the process!

First off I disassembled the fake camera so I could understand how things were constructed.

The front grip pieces are simply attached to the camera by some super sticky double sided tape. You need to remove the bottom panel of the camera to easily get at them. The two port access panels are the more challenging items to remove. You need to remove the screws from both sides of the camera after removing the front grip sections. Seeing as this was a fake camera, I went all the way and fully disassembled it, but if you were taking the grip off of a real camera you could just loosen the front and back plastic panels to make it easier. 

To extract the rubber memory card door you need to try and separate the two body panels and pull up on the center connecting piece to give the rubber enough room to be pulled out. Just be sure not to pull up too hard on the center plastic body panel piece because I think that has the potential of snapping off (however, this body panel plastic seems to have a good level of strength and flexibility). For the rubber MIC port cover, you can just pull on it until the metal ring that is compressed onto it slides off or you can completely disassemble the fake camera to get at it with needle nose pliers.



That photo above is the real camera as I’m replacing the grip. In this case I wanted to do as little as possible. All that needs to be done is to remove the bottom panel and the screws on each side (don’t forget the strap lugs!). 

The port and memory card panels are again the most difficult part. This time the MIC port took a bit more thought. I pulled out the yellow port cover and let the metal ring fall out of the camera. For the replacement black port cover, I was able to clamp the metal ring back on and slide it horizontally into the real camera’s hole. as long as you clamp the ring so it is long and thin it should fit through the hole with a bit of effort, kind of like pushing a spear with a thick rope attached through a hole. The memory card door was the same process as the fake camera. Again, don’t put too much upward force on the center plastic piece.

Here is the real K-01 with a black black. I personally think it looks a lot better…


To make my camera a bit unique, I used the black strap lugs from the fake white camera instead of the original silver ones. So, you might be wondering, is it possible to make a completely black camera with a real camera and a fake white demo unit? I think it might be. The challenge is that the top metal flash port is secured from inside and the center flash port is very securely attached. I slightly bent and scuffed up mine a bit trying to pry off the center flash piece. 

I think it would require that the plastic body panel underneath be sacrificed to release the top components. Without being able to see inside, it’s difficult to say how to do that in a way the components don’t get damaged. Another big challenge is that it would require that the real camera be disassembled significantly more to replace those components.

For some laughs, I put the fake camera back together with the yellow grip and silver strap lugs:



As you can see I decided to call it the “K-RAZY-01” camera. It’s something else, isn’t it? haha

日本からの訪問者の流入を見ました。。。笑。 

私が答えることを望んだが、2CH.NETはアクセス制限があるでしょう。。。

ごめん、サイトは英語だけでした。 日本語が少し分かります。

K-01のグリップの変更は難しくない、けどすべての黒のカメラはたぶんとても大変と思います。
偽のカメラのフラッシュコンパートメントは取り除きにくいでした。 目に見えるネジません。

今はK-01がありません、けど良いカメラでした。すてきなセンサーがありますし。



Popular posts from this blog

First look at the Sigma 18-50mm F/2.8 for Sony E-mount bought from KEH

I've use a Sony Alpha A6000 and the PZ 16–50mm F/3.5–5.6 OSS kit lens with my computer as a webcam for a long time now. It's a lower cost option that has been very consistent outputting 1080p at 30 FPS to a USB based HDMI capture device. The kit lens is generally fine, but it has a few quirks. The biggest issue is that throughout the zoom range the maximum aperture value is not fixed. This introduces technical challenges when I want to show detailed views of product or similar use cases. There are also other considerations I'll talk about later in this article. So I decided to buy the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 DC DN | C lens in E-mount as a replacement.  Links in this article are a mix of paid and through my affiliates. I earn from each in different ways. One is a flat fee and the others I earn from qualifying purchases. Considering them for your purchasing needs helps make the creation of this information viable!   I made a video unboxing the lens and trying it out with Open ...

Camera Gear Reviews and Marketing Issues Exposed

A great overview by Gerald Undone on his experiences in the field of camera gear related videos! It is an important topic. The more open the better, I’d say. After over 13 years making photography and videography gear videos, I’ve not had a huge amount of success comparatively, but I’ve also never been especially brand safe to begin with for these companies to consider me. 🤣 I think his mentions toward the end of the video are especially important. The unwritten pressure, or worse with companies like Insta360 , shouldn’t be acceptable and should be publicly called out more often. That’s probably the only way things will actually change for the better. I created a video detailing my opinion on the topic further: More of my comments on the video… His YouTube channel. 4:30 I understand that’s what Gerald does, but are there situations where companies are paying for flights and hotel costs of other reviewers with the expectation of a video/article being produced? (EDIT: I’ve seen confirm...

Canon M6 Mark II HDMI & 10-bit Output?

I’m writing all of this down as in case sources disappear and I want to reference M6ii HDMI-out information in the future.  So this is not by any means a definitive source but rather a jumble of information I’m putting together in the moment. The “HDMI info disp” setting to select clean output mode. There is one webpage I know about that mentioned the Canon EOS M6 Mark II supports clean HDMI output in 10-bit 4:2:2. I don’t think the page exists any longer on Canon USA’s website because the old link no longer works after a redesign. https://youtu.be/_UT9u0XVn5U However it does currently exist on the Internet Archive . Here’s the important quote from that webpage:  HDMI recording: Menu-selected user choices for HDMI output with info (images recorded to the SD card); Clean 4K output, or Clean Full HD output. With clean output, compatible HDMI recorders can be connected with appropriate HDMI cords. During Clean HDMI out, video is not recorded to an in-camera SD card. With compatib...